Scrapy Koko 120 – 2.5″ with 3″ props or “break me please”

As I updated my 3″ Cloud 149 cinewhoop with new motors, ESC, FC and VTX i would like to reuse leftowers from that. Those “scrapy” parts was quite poor and not so powerfull, But if I use really light frame, they can be strong enough to have fun .
I just blindely chose iFlight Turbobee 120RS really light (8.6 g ) frame what is 2.5″ toothpick class with 16×16 stack, but I beleave that I would put the 3″ props, 20×20 stack and larger motors somehow 🙂
I know, i know. This frame is too week for that bulky components, but why not?

So the issues was:

  • Put 3″ props on that frame which can handle max 2.5″ props (motor extenders)
  • use 13xx motors on frame with holes for 11xx motors (motor extenders)
  • Use 20×20 stack on that frame with 16×16 (stack extender)

3D models
Again, As I’m good friend with Sketchup and my 3D printer, theres some 3D printed parts,
You can find all related 3D models here

My 3D printer:
I have SLA LCD 3D printer (Anycubic Photon S) and UV resin.
I’m using Flexible resin.

Components used:
Frame – iFlight Turbobee 120RS
FC – F4 Noxe V1 Flight Controller
ESC – 15A 4 in 1 ESC
Motor – Readytosky 1306 3100KV
Props – 3045 3blade
Cam – Caddx Turbo EOS2 16:9 Mini PAL
RX – Radiolink R12DSM
VTX – Mini 5848 VTX 48CH
LiPo – Battery Tattu 450mAh 75C 14.8V 4S

Later I will add split cam to get some HD video. I already ordered:
Runcam Split 3 nano

Get the frame ready for grinding

And grind out a bit of carbon on the outside of arm as on the picture (if your motor axes stand out from motor)

Prepare aluminium extenders from 16×16 to 20×20 stack (Which also move tower 4mm to back to fits the split camera)
I just cut it with engraving laser to the tape sticked to the aluminium plate, to preciser cutting

2D model of FC extenders here

And some hand work with saw and grinder

Put it on the frame, than (as My VTX had one side of PCB flat) put a thermal pad on that plates to get some heat from VTX

Than add VTX and 5mm Nylon spacers.

Solder XT30 wires sideways from the ESC.

Split the cable to 50/50 and solder half from top a half from bottom of PCB to have stronger joints

I removed old heat shrinks from motor wires (as they looks ugly and are too wide) and use only one bigger shrink for all 3 wires and only short thin shrink on the ends of the cables (sorry no photo here)

Add 2 screw to the motor and solder the cables to the ESC and put a insulation tape on the arms to protect cables.

And you can unscrew two temporary screws and screw motor via 3D printed extenders

And a picture with extenders only from final build:

you can find a 3D model of extenders here
theres also optional stands inside of 3D model for SLA printing

Even I created more bulky front version which is not tested yet:

Rest of the build is just standard connection of FC, RX and camera, so I did not take any pictures.
anyway as it is reused from my Cloud 149, just go to that build

And thats it Scrapy Koko 120:

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